On a much brighter note, thanks to a friend of my brother, I did get to experience the wonders of Christiana today, a rather dubious looking neighborhood with a main thoroughfare called “Pusher Street.” Pretty easy to guess where it gets its name from.
I´ve been in the Copenhagen area for a few days and it´s been one pain in the butt after another. I thought I´d give the place one final try last night and had the tourist information office make me a reservation at a bed and breakfast for two nights. Funny thing here is that the prices are always for a bed only and breakfast isn´t included.
“It´s just a ´B´” the woman making the reservation said.
Off I went, with the hope of an improvement on my previous couple of days. I should have been so lucky. I caught the bus out towards the Little Mermaid and walked up the steps of a lovely old building. The shiny brass door knob gave me confidence. This person cared about the minor details.
The owner, who must have been about 200 years old and as frail as a premature baby, greeted me at the front door. It was just before 2100 hours. The corridor leading back to the room I´d have was narrow (”please take your backpack off”), dark (”try not to use too many lights”), hot (”only open the window this far, please”), and had a distinct smell of old people mixed with tobbacco. I sighed, dumped my bags and left to go out for the evening with a couple of English people I met on the train from Hamburg. When I returned to the room a couple of hours later, I collapsed in the bed and fell asleep quickly.
This morning when I awoke and looked into the sink in my bedroom, a handful of hair protruded from the plug hole and it certainly wasn´t mine. I went to take a shower and found toothpaste stains all over the sink and mirror in there, as well some rather dubious- looking brown stains on the bathmat.
I stepped into the tub and turned on the shower attachment. Water went everywhere. The mis-aligned holes shot water left, right, up and down. Fearing a flood would ensure if I remained upright, I got down on my knees and lowered my head to join them. What on earth was I paying 400 KR for?? Not for another night, that´s for sure.
The last thing I wanted to do was give the coffin dodger a heart attack by running through my list of grievances, so I paid her for one night and then went to complain to the tourist office. I was expecting problems when it came to getting back the deposit they´d taken from me earlier, but they were quick to settle and get me outof the door.
This you’re gonna love.
The train system is so screwed up around Copenhagen at the moment because of track work that instead of catching two trains to Tisvildeleje, I had to catch three. Unfortunately though, I missed the last one because of delays–it was after 2100 hours–and would have to wait for another hour. I called Ann at Tibirkelude B&B (www.tibirkelund.dk) to let her know I’d probably be there around 2300, what with having to walk 2km once the train pulled in.
“Oh, this is bad,” Ann said. Yeh, I know, but what can I tell you? Shit happens. “We go to bed by 10:30.”
“Er, so what would you like me to do?” I asked, and added half joking, “Should I not come and go all the way back to Copenhagen?”
“Er yes, I think that would be best,” Ann said.
You’re fucking kidding me, right?? (in my head, mom, not out loud). This really can’t be happening.
She wasn’t kidding and it was happening. What the hell was I going to do now? I was speechless and just put the receiver back on its hook. Maybe she just had a bad day.
Since there was no-one around at the ticket office I walked through the only open door I could find and spoke with the train track operator (or whatever the name of those guys is that sit in front of the control panel) to see where I could go. Anywhere. Just get me out of here.
Nothing much we could come up with. Osterport, Copenhagen or Helsinger. But what about a “T” place? Nope.
The next train that pulled in was headed to Osterport so I jumped on. When I exited the station at the other end I saw a Comfort Hotel so went to ask how much a night would cost.
“Usually 175 Euros, but we could let you have it for 145.” Very sweet of you but no thanks. If I was going to have to pay that kind of money, I’d head back to the city again.
Stephanie was carrying her bike down the stairs to the platform.
“Hey,” I said, suddenly thinking I might have some kind of plan, “Are there any hotels in Tivoli Gardens?” I’d make it do as my T place, stay one night and get out of town.
“No, they unfortunately close it at night.” It’s just got amusement park rides and restaurants.
I could see I’d sparked her interest with my alphabet idea. Her mind was working, the wheels turning, trying to come up with a place within easy reach beginning with the right letter.
I then looked at the train map and realized there was a station right before the airport, a suburb of Copenhagen beginning with T: Tårnby. There had to be somewhere there.
“It’s a relatively new area that’s built up over the last couple of years,” Stephanie said, “so I would have thought they’d have something there.”
She wished me luck when we got to Copenhagen and I continued, fingers and toes crossed there’d be somewhere.
And like a bright shining light I could see the Zleep Hotel Airport sign 100 m from the station exit. It would cost me approximately 50 Euros for the night but I didn’t care. Tårnby would do as my “T” place. It’s very basic and the carpets could do with a good wash (better yet, replaced) but it’s a roof over my head and I’ve got BBC World Service!
I know I said I was planning on staying in Copenhagen for a couple of days but let’s just say I had a rather uncomfortable “episode” that prompted me to take flight. Nothing serious and I’m all good but not something I wanted to stick around for. I packed my bags lickety-split and am now back at the train station about to head to my “T” place, which I picked out. No hat involved.
Tisvildeleje, pronounced something like “Tis-vil-e-leye,” is just over an hour north of Copenhagen. The place I’ve found to stay at is 2km from the train station (“I don’t think you’ll be able to get a taxi,” the proprietor of the B&B said) and 3 km from the main town (“we’re in the countryside”), so who knows when I’ll get internet access next?
Apparently the hottest July on record for Denmark, many people found ways to cool down, whether by sticking their heads under the running waters of the fountain nearby Amalienborg Palace, the home of Queen Margrethe II and other members of the Royal Family, or by taking a spin on a ride at Tivoli Gardens.
Caught the train north from Hamburg last night and after another five hours reached Copenhagen, capital of Denmark. Managed to find a bed at the Danhostel Copenhagen City for 150 kr per night (20 Euros). Paid for two nights in advance but then decided to leave today so had a little problem trying to get my money back from the hostel but they eventually relented. Have been invited to stay with fellow SERVAS member this evening.
I know you all need some photos to look at. The site is looking pretty boring. Will head out today and see what nougats I can find.
Many thanks for all of your wonderful feedback and words of encouragement. For the time being at least I’ll keep on truckin.
