Europe On An Alphabet Update

It’s been six weeks since I left the UK and since I’m currently back there again, due to sickness–actually, old-age in the family–it seems a good a time as any to update you on my travels.

Six countries down: Germany (Argenbühl-Eglofs), Liechtenstein (Balzers), Spain (Cullera), Portugal (Darque), Andorra (Encamp), and Italy (Frattammagiore). Only another 20 to go.

I have met some wonderful people, many of whom have offered assistance in a heartbeat. Negativity has mainly come in the form of stares, and those I can handle. The main difficulty, especially in Andorra, is a language one, or rather, lack of it. 

Italy–excluding Naples, which is the armpit of the country–and Spain are currently running neck-and-neck, as far as favorite places go. The people are passionate and welcoming and the climates are mild.  My least favorite place has been Andorra, mainly because of the language, but also because of the lack of architectural beauty and its similarity to English coal-mining towns.

The landscapes have changed regularly, sometimes daily, from cold and windy mountains covered with snow, to sunny with soft and sandy beaches. Sleeping accommodation has ranged from a sofa in a hostel reception area, to a four-star hotel, to a park bench.

My most recent port of call was Ricadi, Capo Vaticano, in southern Italy. Outside of the tourist spots, the Calabria region is rugged and lush and still relatively underdeveloped and poor. But, as with all the places I have visited so far, cranes and trucks, along with vanity and money, are moving in quickly.

I return to Ricadi this coming Monday, May 8, to pick up my clean laundry and new hat. Thanks to my friend Julie and the San Francisco Hat Company, a replacement is ready and waiting to set off to my “G” place in Albania.

Gjirokastra, also known as Gjirokaster, is located in the south of Albania. To get there I will travel by train from Ricadi to Bari, on the east coast of Italy, and from there will catch a boat to Dorres, Albania, which is approximately 30 km from Tirana, the country’s capital and largest city. From Tirana I’ll hop a bus down south.

For the first time since I began my trip, and because I’ve had a little more time on my hands, I decided to visit the Foreign and Commonwealth Office (and U.S. State Department) website to bone up on travel advisories for my next few countries. I wish I hadn’t. The news is not encouraging, and my family and friends have tried to dissuade me from continuing on to Albania and Turkey. Although their concerns will not stop me, I have taken to heart some words of wisdom from a dear friend in the British Foreign Service, who continually watches out me.

“Take a photocopy of your passport around with you for ID and keep your original in your hotel safe.  Take a false wallet or purse/handbag with you to give to any mugger without hesitation (God forbid it should happen) and then get the fuck out of there Vic, don’t wait around for photos and autographs!”

I promise to be on my best behavior, and will advise the embassies in each country of my presence. I will not wear my stars and stripes or “I love London” t-shirts, and will carry a list of emergency numbers with me. Considering all the trouble I have had with the phone cards I’ve purchased, I am also taking the opportunity whilst in England to buy a cheap phone and will pick up SIM cards as I move from place to place.

Although frail and old, Mad Aunt Kate has pepped up somewhat since I returned, and may even be allowed to return home during the next few days. She has always been a strong, independent, bullheaded and eccentric individual, so it has been difficult to see her having to be so reliant upon others for help. I can only imagine how she feels about it all, although hearing how she screams at the nurses and her refusing to eat anything gives me an idea.

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